Here are some things I suggest you learn about now as you are likely to encounter them, if you haven’t yet.
Know how to give injections. Some medication must be given intramuscular, some must be given subcutaneously. Know how to give each type and where they should be administered.
Know which needle size to use with each common medication you are likely to use. Which is larger, 18 gauge or 22 gauge? How do you give an IM injection to a new piglet that has very little muscle? How do you restrain a mature hog for injections?
Know the different common sizes of syringes and which should be used for different dosages. Can you reuse a syringe for multiple hogs? If so, when? If not, why not? Can you use one syringe but change needles for each hog? How do you disinfect multiple dose syringes between uses?
Know about anaphylaxis and why you should have epinephrine on hand and ready to use when you give injections. Where can you get epinephrine? How do you administer it?
Know how to store different medications and how long they can be stored.
Why might Dectomax be better than other anthelmintics? Should you have a regular worming schedule? Why or why not? What choice do you have if you don’t want to use an injectable anthelmintic? What can you do to lessen the possibility of your hogs being overloaded with internal parasites (therefore not requiring anthelmintics)?
What is the difference between LA200 and Biomycin 200? Why does the difference matter? What symptoms might indicate their use?
What is “Scour Halt”? When and why is it used?
What is “Excede”? Why might it be a better choice than others?
What is the difference between bacterial and viral infections? Which is e-coli? What infections can be transmissible to humans?
What are the benefits and downsides of clipping needle teeth, docking tails, castrating boars? Does your farm operation require any of these practices?
Why do industrial farms provide antibiotics in their hog feed? Is that appropriate for your farm? What could the negative effects be if you followed this practice?
What is the normal temperature for a piglet / hog? How do you find out the temp of your pigs? What do you do if your piglet’s temp is 95.5° F? How about 105.5° F? Which might indicate a bacterial infection? Does either indicate the possible need for an antibacterial? How do you raise or lower the temp of a piglet?
How do you treat a tear to a piglet’s ear? A deep cut to its leg? A dislocated hip? A broken tooth? A prolapsed rectum? A scratch on it’s back that bleeds but has not gone through the skin? Which can you handle and which need a vet?
How do you bottle feed piglets? What conditions require that? How do you tube feed a piglet? What equipment is needed for each?
How long does a sow produce colostrum? How long after birth can a piglet get the benefit from colostrum? What do you do for an orphan piglet? Will a lactating sow accept and feed an orphan from another litter? What do you do if there is no sow available that is producing colostrum? What is the difference between powdered or paste colostrum and colostrum supplement?
How do you wean a bottle baby piglet? When does this start and how do you know a piglet is weaned?
What is a biosecurity plan? Why does it matter? What are the specific procedures for your farm? How long do you quarantine swine? Is there any difference between that period and one for cattle? If so, why?
This is a very long list of questions and topics; you may be able to answer these right now; but if you can correctly answer all of these then I would consider you ready to take care of swine. And you would know more than perhaps 90 percent of swine caretakers.
Where do you find answers to these questions? Of course, there is the Internet. But there are also some very good books out there. I highly recommend these:
Large Animal Clinical Procedures for Veterinary Technicians. Elizabeth A. Hanie.
Handbook of Pig Medicine. Peter GG Jackson and Peter D Cockcroft.
Pig Ailments Recognition and Treatment. Mark White.
IMO, the best thing that these books can do is to let a newbie understand just how important knowledge is and how to see when they are in over their heads. One of the common things that I have seen is that newbies (and veterans) assume they know more than they do. It happened to me and a lot of pigs died due to my hubris. Now I know when to call the vet.
I sometimes hear comments from folks that generally go like this: “You can’t trust a (boar, sow, hog); never turn your back on it!” “You can’t tame a mean hog!” “All of you ‘hobby farmers’ who play with your pigs are not real hog farmers.”
Today I added a post to my blog that explains why I treat my hogs as I do. Why I “play” with them and don’t have any fear being with them. I thought it might be interesting to this group so I’m reposting it here:
When I talk about some of the things I do, such as give belly rubs to my hogs, talk with them and look them in the eye, let them rub against me (not the most sanitary thing…), sit with sows while they are farrowing, check ears, feet and eyes without having to restrain the hog, some people doubt that I am being totally honest. This is because they think of hogs as aggressive man-eaters that can’t be tamed or trusted.
I’ve recently made a point of proving that my hogs are docile and easy to be around when people come to the farm. I bring the visitor to the fence and then I walk into the hog herd and start scratching them, rubbing their bellies, checking their ears for parasites, talking to them…
Silly, isn’t it?
The truth that I have learned is that if your hogs trust you, they will let you do your work. They will let you do all the things you must do, such as check them for parasites, examine and treat injuries, examine teats to ensure they work and know when they are about to farrow (even feel their babies move around inside them), check their piglets and treat those that need help. If your hogs trust you they will let you check their teeth, give them injections and oral medication, without having to restrain them. The truth is: my silly methods allow me to be a hog farmer without needing all of the expensive restraint hardware that modern farms require. My method, in my opinion, is better.
And it’s all about trust. Belly rubs, soft talk, ear scratching, just making sure to say “hi” to each hog every day, all of these techniques have a purpose. If my hogs know that I am not going to hurt them, that I pose no threat, then they trust me to touch them and check parts of their bodies as I need to. It makes my work easy.
I have taken in mature hogs that their owners described as “just mean”. Boars that would rip you to pieces if they could. Sows that fight every time they see each other. But within a couple of weeks after being on my farm they all have become very docile and content. This happens because they just did not trust their previous owners, due to the manner in which they were treated, but they learn to trust me because I don’t do the things that scare or hurt them.
So, how do I build this trust? It all starts with an understanding of hog behavior. Hogs may seem like predators with their large teeth, loud growls, and big size. But they are actually prey animals. Hogs are food for predators and their instinct naturally makes them distrust other animals like dogs, bears and people. The way to overcome their fear is to give them no reason to fear you.
It starts when they are born. I am there whenever I can to soothe the sow and let the piglets see that I am part of their new world. A couple of days after birth the piglets are walking around with mom, and I am there too. I don’t try to grab or hold the piglets (unless necessary for their health). I am just there. After a week or so they start walking over to me, sniff my boots, play around me, and then I know that I have not done anything to make them fear my presence.
The process continues as they grow (if we keep them). They become part of a herd that trusts me and the herd’s behavior reinforces their knowledge that I am not a threat. When the new pigs show me that I am accepted I then start touching them, scratches and belly rubs begin, and that becomes part of their daily routine. Then they start welcoming me when I visit and asking, through their grunts and behavior, that I provide attention to them. It is then that the process is complete. They don’t fear me, I don’t fear them, and I can do whatever is needed to assure their continued health.
When we talk to new pig owners my sweetie and I explain how they can achieve the same:
1. Take them home and put them into a healthy environment.
2. For the first week, don’t try to grab them or pick them up. Just go into their environment, provide clean water and good food, and sit with them for awhile. Talk to them, read a book, but don’t try to touch them. If they start coming to you, let them but don’t react other than to speak in soft tones.
3. After the pigs start welcoming you and touching you, then you can start touching them. Don’t grab them, don’t try and force them, just scratch their ears and necks if they let you.
4. Once the scratching becomes a welcome thing then start with the rubbing. Pet them as you would a dog or cat. Move your hands down their sides and rub their bellies. When they lay down for a belly rub, they have fully accepted you and trust you. And you can do what you need to.
We know this restraint (on your part) is hard. You want to pick up your new cute piglet, want to hug it, but doing so would make the piglet feel “captured”. For a prey animal this means danger! Don’t make it think you are a predator. The process is essential if you want to be able to easily check or treat the pig whenever it needs it.
Be the friend that your pig wants and it will trust you to do “weird” things.
As a group of rare pig breeders, we have reached a stage where we have a large enough population of Large Black pigs, dispersed across North America, to be more selective in our breeding programs. In the past you were lucky just to get a breeding pair; now there is enough diversity, and documentation of that diversity, for us to be more concerned with the health of the genetics of our breed. To be responsible breeders we need to now include the amount of future inbreeding in our herds as much as any other factor.
If you have been a breeder of registered dogs, cats, cattle or goats, you already understand what the Coefficient of Inbreeding (CI) means and its historical and scientific basis. A simple explanation of Coefficient of Inbreeding is that it measures the amount of inbreeding present in a single animal. The higher the CI, usually expressed as a percentage, the higher the amount of inbreeding. A 25% CI is equivalent to mating half-siblings. You may get 30% or 40% or higher CI mating brother to sister depending on how inbred the parents are. A CI of 10% or less is considered to be good for a rare breed.
Why does inbreeding matter? When you mate two animals that are closely related there is a high probability that certain traits are passed on to their offspring. These traits may be beneficial, such as a large amount of functional teats, or they may be detrimental, such as a susceptibility to certain diseases or internal parasites.
Being aware of genetic diversity is critically important for any rare breed. One of the best ways to keep diversity in the breed is to keep more males as breeding stock, rather than using AI semen that comes from one or two boars. If everyone uses the same boar or its semen, no matter how great he is, the breed loses the diversity of the genetic material that is so critical. Resist using AI (artificial insemination) except for importing some genetics you can’t get otherwise.
This is where the CI of our animals becomes useful. When making a decision of which boar to breed to which sow you can calculate the expected CI of their offspring. A simple plan would be to shoot for a CI of 20% or less; the lower, the better.
So how do you know what will make a good breeding mate for your pigs? The answer is not simple, but calculation of the CI is a start. As the Registrar for the Large Black Hog Association I can calculate the CI for any Large Black hogs to which the Association has the pedigree information. Just email me with your request.
There are several ear notch numbering systems but we use the one that has always been used by the LBH’s. The notches all look the same (a V) but the position of the notches is what determines the number it represents. This is best shown in an illustration but it may help if I also explain.
Look at a pig’s ear and imagine it has a line drawn half way between where the ear begins at the head and the tip of the ear. Some notches must be placed inside that imaginary line (near the head) and some notches must be placed toward the outside of the line (toward the tip). In addition, the notches will be placed either on the bottom of the ear or on top of the ear. The position of the notch can represent the number 1, the number 3, or the number 9. There are actually larger numbers but for now, these 3 numbers should serve you well.
The number one is represented by one notch on the bottom of the ear toward the inside (near the head). This one can be a bit tricky because the ear forms a crease as it comes out of the head and then folds over. You want to stay to the inside of the imaginary dividing line but not so close to the head that it is hidden in the fold. The number 2 is represented by two notches (notch 1 + notch 1 makes 2) on the bottom of the ear on the inside (near the head). So, if you see an ear with two notches close together on the bottom of the ear near the head, that is number 2. You want the notches close but not so close they grow into one big notch. Be sure and leave some ear between the two but you don’t want a big gap either.
For the number 3, we place the notch on the bottom side like number one but this time we move it out toward the tip of the ear. Do not remove the tip but make sure the notch is to the outside of the imaginary line. When you look at an ear with one notch near the tip, that is a number 3 even though you only have one notch. It is the placement of the notch that makes it a number 3 instead of the number 1. If you were to put two notches close together on the outside, you would have the number 6 because we add the two notches together, just like we added the two notches near the head to make the number 2.
Well, what if we need the number 4 or 5? We use a combination of the number 1 notch and the number 3 notch to add up to 4 or 5. For example, the number 4 would have one notch out toward the tip (3) and one notch near the head (1) and those two notches added together would equal 4, even though there are only two notches. That’s why it is so important to put the notches at one end or the other because if you place them in the middle, you won’t know if it represents a one or a three. For the number 5 you will have one notch toward the tip (3) and two notches close together next to the head for 2 (1+1).
Now you should be seeing a pattern. We never use more than 2 notches close together. Instead of using 3 or more notches close together, we move to a different position to represent a higher number. Six would equal two notches near the tip, seven would equal two notches near the tip and one near the head, and eight would equal two near the tip and two near the head (3+3+1+1).
For the number 9, we move to the top of the ear and place one notch toward the tip on top. To form numbers greater than 9, we use a combination of notches on top of the ear and on the bottom of the ear and add them up. The number 10 would be formed with two notches. Can you figure out where they would be? One notch on the top of the ear near the tip (but don’t remove the tip) and one notch on bottom close to the head. For number 11 we have the #9 notch on top and two #1 notches on bottom and so on until you reach the number 27 and that is a notch on top near the head but it will be years probably before you reach number 27.
A picture is worth a thousand words. Here’s a downloadable picture of Large Black pig ears with notches. (Link under construction)
Remember, the right ear contains the litter number. You will start with litter number 1 and add litter numbers each time you have a litter you are going to register. Let’s say you have 2 LBH gilts that farrow in March. This is your first litter so it is litter #1. When the second gilt farrows, you will name that litter #2. When fall rolls around and they each farrow again, you will have litter number 3 and 4 and you just continue counting as long as you raise hogs. This litter number will go on your registration papers even if you don’t notch ears. If you use tags instead, you will need to make a note on the application the tag number for this particular pig. Someone may later notch the pig’s ears with this number if the tag falls off.
The left ear is the pig number. We typically start numbering the females and follow with the males. You will not be able to keep up with which pig was actually born first and it really doesn’t matter. You just need to be sure and notch the whole litter before they are allowed to run with piglets of another litter because once you mix them, you will never be able to sort them out again.
LBH’s have tiny ears when they are born so we like to wait until they are at least a few weeks old before we notch them. If you have not already done so, please have them notched by 6 weeks. After that, they get harder to hold and handle while “working” your pigs. We find it efficient to notch, worm, and vaccinate all at the same time. We do not cut needle teeth or tails and have never found a need for that. We have had a few tails freeze off in bad weather but they heal quickly and do not seem to cause a problem.
Large Blacks are extremely docile and if handled often and gently, they will become big pets. Don’t let that fool you. Nature has preserved the pigs for thousands of years by instilling the herd and mother’s with a protective instinct. When a pig feels threatened (such as picking them up) they will squeal and the whole herd will be stirred into action. Your big pet may feel the need to bite you or push you over in order to save the pig. Safety should always come first no matter how tame you think your pigs are. If you can lure the mother away from the litter with feed and then close the gate, that would be best. You can also buy a light weight guard designed as a shield to hold between you and the hog. Hogs are extremely intelligent and they will not soon forget rough treatment if you try to keep them at bay with sticks or such violence. As a last resort, drop the pig and get out of the way before you get hurt.
We find it helpful to carry the pigs in a box rather than carry them in our arms. As long as you are holding a pig, they will squeal. Once you drop them in a box, they typically shut up and the herd calms down. To catch a young pig, try grabbing them by the hind leg and holding them upside down. They actually squeal less than when you hold them in your arms like a football. Once you have the young pig away from the herd, it helps to have one person hold them and the other person notch. Simply wipe the ear with a disinfectant like iodine and then place the notcher and squeeze it fast and hard. It should make a clean break and yes the ear will bleed but it will soon seal over without a problem. If you are concerned, you can find powders at your feed store designed to stop the bleeding.
Once you get used to reading notches, you can identify your breeding animals and mark it in your records when each sow has her litters. Notch the piglets before turning multiple litters out together and you should have no problem identifying individuals. If you happen to buy a new pig/hog that has the same ear notch as an animal you currently have, you will need to add some additional form of identification. Since we have many new breeders, we will see a lot of pigs marked with litter numbers one through 5. You can try adding a tag to the new pig. Even if it falls off, you will have a hole in the middle of the ear that the other pig does not have. If you don’t want to add a tag, then punch a hole in the middle of the ear anyway, just some way to distinguish between the two.
We feel that all pigs should be notched but all pigs do not need to be registered. Only the very best should be kept for the breeding pool but you can’t tell which are best until they get some age. Select the pigs that are to be kept for pork and notate in your records which pig numbers were not registered. You may have a litter that you notch pig number one through 11 but when they are weaned, you only want to register 6. List all pigs on the litter registration so the sows fertility can be documented and then just put “N/A” in the space for the pigs you do not want registered. For example, you will have all 11 pigs listed but you may only register pig number 4/2, 4/3, 4/6, 4/8, 4/10, 4/11 (of course assuming they came from litter number 4). You will pay for and receive 6 papers with these pig numbers and the association will note that your sow had 11 live pigs born.
Many of our breeders breed mainly for pork and do not register most of their litters. If you choose to use all pigs from a litter as pork, then there is no need to register this litter or give it a litter number. You may not even want to notch since all are going to the processor. Notching and registering is for those that may enter the breeding pool at some point.
As owners of these wonderful pigs, you already know how important it is to save this breed and keep it pure. By notching your pigs, naming them for their blood line and getting your breeders registered, you are ensuring their future. And as always, the association is here to help you along the way. Thanks for taking the time to get it right.
It has recently been brought to my attention that some new owners think they can and should raise Large Black Hogs on grass/hay alone. While it’s true these are grazing pigs, swine nutrition is a bit more complicated than that. Let me explain.
Swine are mono or single stomach animals like humans as apposed to multi stomach animals like cows, goats, and sheep. Multi stomach animals have a rumen (one of the many stomachs) that is designed to ferment and break down the fibrous cell walls in forage in order to release the nutrients locked inside. Without a rumen, much of that fiber just passes right through, undigested.
Forage is an important part of a pigs diet though. Just as humans are encouraged to eat their fruits and vegetables, especially the green leafy ones, pigs should be allowed to graze on fresh greens. Fresh young growth is best for swine because it has not reached the fibrous stage that overgrown pastures contain. Large Blacks love grazing and crave fresh greens and the higher protein plants are their favorite. This would include the legumes (clover, lespedeza, alfalfa, beans, etc.) and things we might consider garden plants like the kale, rape, turnips, etc. Fresh grass is also a good choice but will not provide as much protein as some others just listed.
“Grass Fed Pork” like grass fed beef is higher in the omegas, the fat is different that commercial pork in that it has a higher proportion of good to bad fat. The carotene in the forage will cause it to have a more yellow appearance but that is just proof that it contains more vitamin A and other important nutrients. For more information on grass fed meat, check out the “Eat Wild” website for scientific studies. The best reason for me though is I prefer the taste of grass fed pork. That is something you just can’t buy at the local market.
But, as I mentioned before, grass alone is not going to meet the needs of a growing pig or a productive sow. So, how much grain is needed to raise a pig? That answer depends on many variables like age, climate, size, quality of the feed, and the particular animal. But, pigs need to be feed a good balanced nutrition at least once a day. I like to use the “feed until full” rule of thumb and then don’t have feed available until the next scheduled meal. That means you need to spend time with your pigs and watch them. How fast do they eat? How long does it take them to clean it up or do they walk away? Once you observe them for a few days you should know how much they need.
Pigs need a certain amount of protein to grow well. In the wild, pigs add in an occasional lizard or rat for protein. The old books on designing farm feeding programs often assume that left over whey protein from “your” dairy will supply most of the needed protein for pigs. Pigs always welcome left-overs, be it table scraps, extra boiled eggs from the chickens or nut orchard leavings. Trying to come up with a source of protein if you chose to design your own feed will be your biggest challenge. Most hobby farmers find it easier to buy swine feed ready-made.
Feed is the most expensive input in pork production so of course farmers are wise to try and reduce that cost as much as possible. One of the cheapest feeds is corn but corn is not a balanced feed. Corn is only a portion of the grain used in mixed feed and unless you know what you are doing (consult your local extension office for more information on swine nutrition and feed), you will not be mixing your feed correctly. If you want feed designed for swine, you will probably need to purchase feed designed for the particular stage of growth of your herd. One word of caution for purchased feed though. Make sure you read the fine print of the label for “medicated”. If it says medicated, request the store to obtain non-medicated feed for you. You nor your customers want to be eating meat that came from medicated feed.
A good test of your herd nutrition is your litter size. Litter size can be genetic and of course it is affected by the age of the gilt/sow but the most important variable I have seen is feed. Large Blacks are known for large litters so the genetics are there for large litters. If your mature sow (but not an old sow) is having litters of less than 8, I’d look to feed as the cause. Obesity is also a huge deterrent to fertility so those of you who love to feed all day long, maybe you want to cut back. Too much fat around an ovary will cause hormone problems and cysts. Both of which can ruin a great sow.
I know from experience that moldy corn can practically stop production without showing any visible signs of ill health in the sow. Once corn is ground into feed, you can’t see the mold and may not even know it is present. Purchased corn is of course Monsanto genetically altered corn that is raised on Round Up treated fields. A recent study in Europe has linked the use of Round Up to altered hormones and reduced fertility. I’m no scientist so can’t say but I do have some concerns in feeding corn. But I’m no corn farmer either so I have little choice but to use what‘s available. The best you can do is to try different feed suppliers and brands until you find what works on your farm.
Yes, Large Blacks are grazing pigs so get them out on pasture but don’t forget to feed them too. These pigs are not wild hogs so don’t expect them to make it on their own out on the back forty. Your pig will get the final word. If you are feeding and managing them properly, they will reward you with two large litters a year. If they are not, then it is time to re-evaluate your practices. Remember, we are here to help you every step of the way.
Google “Heritage Pork” and you will find a lot of blogs, news articles and websites that profess the wonders of “Heritage” breed pigs. The claims about these pigs lead to a lot of wrong impressions and expectations. The truth is that heritage breed pigs are not all the same; they have widely different meat qualities; they are raised in many different settings. Just ordering “Heritage Pork” does not guarantee that you will get great, marbled pork from pigs that lived good lives. Perhaps some facts are necessary.
Myth 1: ”Heritage pigs are all rare and endangered.”
Loosely defined, heritage hogs are those relatively distinct breeds that were present and can be traced back to the period before industrial farming. That was the time when all hogs were kept out on the pasture. In order to survive they had to be able gain adequate nutrition from whatever food they could find. This included plants, bugs, worms, small rodents, fruit, etc. They also had to be able to live outside and endure the heat and cold of changing seasons. When industrial hog farms started to predominate, the hogs that were raised in those confined facilities slowly lost the ability to forage for food and endure temperature extremes. The old breeds gradually fell out of favor and some breeds disappeared altogether.
A few dedicated hog breeders, however, held on to some of the old breeds to keep them from becoming extinct. It is these old breeds, that we call “heritage” breeds, that are now so critically important. They retain the traits that were so valuable in their ancestors and are very desirable now that more people are becoming conscious of the inhumanity and ill health of raising hogs in confined facilities.
The only thing they have in common is the name “Heritage”. All this really means is that they can be traced back for some time as intact, singular breeds.
For example, Hampshires are heritage pigs. But you can find Hampshires in very large numbers practically anywhere in the U.S. In fact, the American National Swine Registry notes that this is the third “most recorded breed” of pigs in the United States. The only reason they qualify for the label “heritage” is that we can trace them, as a distinct breed, back to 1827. Their ancestors in England have been “improved” into the Wessex Saddleback, but the Hampshires we have today are still true to their 1827 importation.
Myth 2: ”All Heritage hogs are raised on pasture and treated humanely.”
Hampshires, Berkshires and Durocs are all examples of “heritage” pigs that are in great numbers in the U.S. Their numbers are in large part due to the management practices widely used. In addition to some small farms, these breeds are now being raised on modern, intensive factory farms. A Duroc breeder told me he was proud of the fact that he could raise hundreds of Durocs in the same space that I raised a couple dozen Large Blacks and Gloucestershire Old Spots. He asked, “Why are you fooling around with those silly floppy eared pigs? Business is business and if you want to make money you have to raise them in a barn. Those pigs aren’t real farm pigs, anyway.” By the way, he sells his pork as “Heritage” pork.
Myth 3: ”Their meat is better due to marbling!”
Well, not true for all heritage breeds. Large Blacks, Gloucestershire Old Spots and Berkshires do have marbled meat, but Hampshires and some other heritage pig breeds are known for their lean meat. Hampshires are used to improve more modern breeds, that are raised intensively in large factory farms, to make their pork even more lean.
Myth 4: ”Heritage breeds are all docile, easily managed hogs.”
Calling a breed “heritage” doesn’t tell a lot about their temperament. Some breeds are considered to be more docile while others as evil, killer hogs. Large Blacks are known to be easy to raise because they are pretty easy going. In contrast, Durocs are considered to be the angriest pigs around. Both “heritage” but not both thought to be like puppy dogs…
So, how do you know which breed to choose?
Well , if all you are concerned with is the taste of marbled pork, go order some Berkshire. You can find Berkshire in most any upscale restaurant at a reasonable price. But, get it soon; many Berkshire producers are breeding them to have leaner meat…
If instead you care about how the pig was treated, get some heritage pork that is advertised as having been raised humanely.
If you want to help sustain a rare breed, choose pork from those listed on the American Livestock Breeds Conservancy website.
If you want a pig that does well raised in a barn then get a Yorkshire, Chester White or Duroc. If you want your pigs to do well on pasture, buy Large Blacks, Old Spots, Tamworths or Red Wattles. If you want a truly unique heritage pig, get a Mulefoot. (But be careful, Mulefoot pigs are known to be pretty cranky…)
The point of this article was to dispel some of the myths about “heritage pork” and help you make better decisions based on facts, not hype. The label “heritage” really doesn’t help much, although I highly recommend supporting most heritage pig breeders if for no better reason than to preserve the unique DNA of these old breeds. But before you buy, do your research and learn more about the specific animal and how it was treated before it makes it to your farm or your dinner plate.
In November of 2008 representatives from each of the rare breed swine associations along with others representing conservation, marketing, and scientific study of the rare swine breeds met at the National Small Farms Trade Show in Columbia, MO. Funded by the Renewing America’s Food Traditions Alliance, the purpose of the meeting was to better understand the status of each of the breeds of endangered swine, the issues each faces, as well as the current face of the marketplace. The group endeavored to identify critical needs that are commonly shared among the breeds, and work to develop strategies for addressing these. The final outcome is a short list of potential fundable projects, appropriate partners, and next steps.
The specific goals the group decided upon were to identify issues and needs shared by most, if not all, of the endangered swine breeds, prioritize issues and needs, determine the major steps necessary to address needs, identify potential funding sources, and establish methods for continued communication.
The next step the group took was to come to a general consensus that identified the most pressing topics and concerns that rare breed swine breeders face and need assistance with. The central themes of concern were outlined by the group and prioritized. Three topics emerged that were ranked as equal in importance:
Marketing (breeding stock & products)
Bloodline Conservation, and
Breed Association support
ALBC staff returned to the office to begin the task of following up and beginning the process of addressing each outlined topic of concern. Some great strides have been made since the fall of 2008 in all of the three categories.
1. Marketing – Within the category of marketing, the group’s first suggestion was that the ALBC Breeders Directory needed to be refined and updated so active breeders are clearly listed as opposed to people that are owners but do not sell breeding stock. In response, this past winter and spring ALBC polled its nearly 4000 members. After hundreds of hours of work from both staff and some dedicated volunteers, the end result is the newly updated 2009/2010 ALBC Breeders Directory. This directory includes new sections specifically identifying breeders, owners of rare breed, and producers with products to sell. A target date for publishing the ALBC directory on-line has been set for next year with the 2010/2011 Breeders Directory in mind. Investigation is under way to identify software that will allow ALBC to manage its membership database so that the directory can be adapted for on-line access.
Marketing opportunities were created for ALBC members in the form of a virtual marketplace. In August of 2009 ALBC launched classified section on the ALBC website. This classifieds section now enables members to post listings to sell breeding stock, product, services, and other items. The software enables the seller to include photos and detailed information that can be broken down by breed under each species. The new classified section can be viewed at http://albc-usa.org/classifiedsection/ . The site can be viewed by the general public. ALBC members can post listings free of charge as part of their membership benefits package.
Our new Communications & Marketing manager, Jen Kendall has also made major improvements on the expansion of communicating with the press and with the ALBC website. A new blog has been created to promote ALBC and endangered breed activities in the field and also a Facebook page to help promote the issues surrounding rare breeds. The ALBC blog entitled “ALBC in Action” can be found at http://albc-usa.blogspot.com/ and the Facebook page can be viewed at http://www.facebook.com/pages/The-American-Livestock-Breeds-Conservancy/75122793733 . Both have become great avenues for getting information about grassroots efforts by producers and to give the general public more access to information about rare breeds.
Finally in the area of brand development ALBC is in the middle of developing a new member’s logo and “brand manual” that will be available for members by December of 2009. Members will be able to utilize these materials as tools to effectively market their rare breeds and products and articulately communicate the issues and concerns involved with rare breeds and their conservation.
2. Bloodline Conservation – Population analysis and bloodline identification for rare breeds is well under way. ALBC is negotiating a collaborative agreement with the University of Saskatchewan to perform DNA analysis of rare breed hair samples. Joining the collaboration is USDA’s National Animal Germplasm Program. NAGP will contribute samples from its collection to the study. DNA findings of rare breeds to the study and will help analyze the data after it is compiled. The DNA analysis of breeds has been a huge multi-year effort for ALBC with its share of bumps and delays along the way. This newly created collaboration between the three organizations has great promise. ALBC is seeking funding to support the analysis of the swine DNA samples in this study. Findings from the analysis will make it be possible for ALBC to help breed associations and breeders to create breeding strategies that will be the most effective for maintaining genetic diversity within their breed populations.
Additionally, Breeders Assistant software has been purchased by ALBC and is being utilized to manage studbooks currently held by the organization on behalf of the breeders. Endangered swine breeds that will be included in the software conversion are the Ossabaw and the Red Wattle. Currently the associations managing other swine breeds with this software include the Large Black hog and the Guinea hog. ALBC has constructed a grant proposal that, if funded, will support the purchase of copies of Breeders Assistant for rare breed associations in need of registration software.
3. Breed Association Support – There is a great need for leadership training for association boards with preparing for leadership transition as a priority. ALBC has created a Managing Breed Associations workshop that is now offered on an annual basis at the ALBC national conferences. This year an overview of the functions of Breeders Assistant has been added to the topics of the workshop to help associations understand the benefits of this user-friendly but effective breed management tool. Further training for swine breeders is being offered at the upcoming conference in Raleigh, NC on November 13th. This in-depth workshop will cover husbandry and management of swine raised in pasture-based agricultural systems.
As follow through to support the ideas developed in the meeting last November, ALBC crafted a pre-proposal that was submitted to the North Central Region SARE to fund swine related research and conservation activities. The pre-proposal was accepted and ALBC has been invited to submit a full proposal that would fund 2 years worth of work to support swine conservation. If successful, funding should be received in the fall of 2010. Partnering with swine breeders are University of Missouri and University of Kentucky. The objectives are to 1) quantify the genetic variability and genetic relationships within and among rare swine breeds; 2) assist swine breeders in the development of long-term breeding strategies, and increase the collaboration among swine breeders to maintain genetic variability and better position these populations for changing markets; 3) develop educational materials and conduct workshops that will educate breeders and producers in sustainable, pasture-based husbandry of endangered swine breeds; and 4) define Heritage Pork, analyze key mid-western markets, and effectively link breeders and producers with consumers. The outputs and outcomes of the effort are to include: 1) a scientific article on the genetics of rare swine breeds, 2) breeding strategies for endangered swine breeds, 3) target populations for germplasm collection, 4) a guide to best husbandry practices for pasture production of rare breeds of swine, 5) two swine husbandry workshops, 6) clearly defined market niches and marketing strategies, and 7) enhanced profitability, sustainability, and effective breed conservation.
Another proposal has been submitted to Southern SARE by University of Kentucky for grant to fund the development of Carcass Percentage Datasheets for eight of the rare breeds of swine on the ALBC Conservation Priority List. The university will be partnering with ALBC and Chefs Collaborative to make the study a reality.
There’s a lot of work ahead but an enormous amount of progress has been made in a relatively short period of time. ALBC would like to thank the participants who came to the initial meeting in Missouri. The time was well spent and has provided the project with great momentum.
The American Livestock Breeds Conservancy is a wonderful organization working to protect over 150 rare livestock and poultry breeds from extinction. We are now officially listed as a Breed Club on their web site.
The Large Black Hogs we raise are listed in the CRITICAL category of breed census, meaning there are fewer than 200 annual registration in the United States and a estimated global population of less than 2,000. We have nearly 200 in our breed database at this point. Maybe we’ll get to rise up to the THREATENED category by early next year with our enthusiasm for these great pigs and work through this Large Black Hog Association.
I encourage anyone who can to support the ALBC and become a member. They have a nice breed book that goes out every year to help promote your good work with these animals. Keep the piglets and registrations coming, everyone!
Things to ponder before you get a pig, by Brian Wright.
This is a question we get all the time from people considering whether to raise their own pork. It is natural to think that raising pigs is hard, or that it takes a special building or constant care. The truth is that pigs are one of the easiest farm animals to raise; if you let them, they will take care of themselves. The best environment for pigs is a piece of pasture and woods large enough so they have an area to eat, drink and wallow, area to sleep and area to poop with good barriers to keep the pig in and predators out.
Feed: Pigs need a balanced diet just like all animals. You can buy commercial pig feed that contains all the right proteins, fats, carbohydrates and minerals for around $8.00 per 50 lb bag (as of this writing). What many people don’t realize is that you can cut down on the cost and provide a healthier diet by letting pigs eat natural food that grows on your property. What is a pig’s natural diet?
Pigs are omnivorous, meaning they eat both plant and animal matter. They are very opportunistic feeders and much of their diet is based on seasonal availability. Foods include grasses, weeds, forbs, roots and tubers, browse, mast (acorns), fruits, bulbs and mushrooms. Animal matter includes invertebrates (insects, snails, earthworms, etc.), reptiles, amphibians, and eggs. They are especially fond of domestic crops such as corn, milo, rice, wheat, soybeans, peanuts, potatoes, watermelons and cantaloupe, so they will eat just about anything from your garden or your kitchen. Pigs also need minerals and they get those from the dirt they eat. If you let them, your pigs will happily feed themselves off the land. This is one of the reasons we raise pigs on pasture; all the grass and browse is free feed and it is good for them! You may still need to supplement their diet by giving them prepared feed but allowing them access to pasture can significantly reduce the amount of prepared feed needed.
One of the common mistakes that some people make is to think they can just feed cheap corn to their pigs. Pigs will grow fast on corn and this deludes some people into thinking they are getting big pigs fast. The problem is that pigs fed only on corn really are just getting fat. Corn only contains 9 percent protein and 70 percent starch (that’s why corn is used to make sugar and sweeteners). All of the extra starch in the pig’s diet is stored as fat, especially for confined pigs that don’t get adequate exercise. All that extra fat grows around the pig’s internal organs leading to all kinds of health problems. Pigs need a balanced diet just like every animal. They need about 12 to 16 percent protein with the rest of their diet consisting of carbohydrates, fiber, minerals and amino acids. Most feed stores sell good pig feed that works as a feed supplement if they also have other, natural food. Corn does work well as a treat since it is so sweet. You can use it to keep the pig preoccupied while you clean its pen or do other maintenance chores. Soak the corn in water first to make it soft and easier to digest or use cracked corn.
Water: Obviously pigs need clean water to drink but many people don’t know that a pig also needs water to control it’s body temperature. Pigs don’t sweat like you and I; we sweat to cool off as the sweat evaporates. Since pigs can’t do that they have to cool off in other ways. Shade and a cool breeze helps, but the best way to keep your pigs cool is to give them a place in which to bathe when they get hot. If you let some water trickle from their water bowl, the pigs will happily turn the muddy dirt into their own mud puddle (wallow). Not only will the wallow cool them off, but the mud that adheres to their skin will shield them from the sun and keep parasites (flies and lice) from hanging around. A muddy pig is a happy pig! We provide showers for our pigs; you can also just hose them down when it’s hot.
Shelter: In the daytime your pigs may just lay down and sleep anywhere but at night they prefer a quiet place to bed down. Any suitable shelter will be fine; we use old dog houses from a local dog rescue, “Port-A-Huts” that we found on Craigslist and we make hoop houses from cattle panels and tarps. Our pigs also have favorite places in the woods. These shelters double as shade in the day where they can get away from the sun and warm places in the winter.
Bathroom: Yeah, I know, when you think of pigs you think of nasty, smelly pig pens. Unfortunately this is the way many people raise pigs, letting them live in their own filth. The truth is that pigs are very clean animals, in their own way. If given the room, a pig will choose a corner to use as its bathroom, far away from where it eats, wallows and sleeps. Again, pasture is the best environment because the breeze helps keep the odor down and all manner of little critters help decompose the waste. If you have to raise your pigs in a barn or other enclosure, you must be the critter to remove the waste…
Barriers: Pigs are wonderful, intelligent animals that yearn to be free!
The problem is if you give them total freedom, they will eat your and your neighbor’s flower bed, rototill your lawn, sleep on your front porch, poop in your garage and, perhaps worse of all, be chased by and killed by your neighbor’s dog. You must limit their freedom to keep their natural behaviors from becoming a nuisance and keep the pigs safe from predators. There are many ways to do that; from building strong walls or fences to making natural barriers such as thick hedges or moats. We keep our pigs within large paddocks made of wire fencing and electric wire. Cattle panels are great for keeping large pigs controlled; pigs quickly learn to stay away from electric fencing but any barrier must be modified so that the pig can’t go under or over it. Wire fences must be on or slightly buried under the ground and you must quickly fix any area where the pig has tried to burrow under it. Electric fencing, whether tight wire or loose polywire, must have gaps no larger than six inches from the ground and between the first two or three strands. The advantage of electric fencing is that you can move it to give your pigs access to new pasture or rotate them between paddocks of pasture.
Although we don’t recommend it sometimes all you have is a barn or old shed in which to raise your pig. This will work IF it gives them the needed space for all their natural behaviors. In a barn you will need to keep their bedding fresh by using hay or other dry bedding as needed. You will also need to ensure there is adequate ventilation to keep the air healthy and neither too hot nor too cold. If the floor isn’t dirt you will need to provide a feed that contains minerals, a mineral block or dirt such as that which adheres to plant roots that you feed them. You will also need to give any babies an iron shot to prevent them from becoming anemic due to lack of iron (piglets raised on dirt get their iron from it naturally). Remember to provide them with natural food (grass, hay, vegetables, etc.) daily.
So, given that healthy pigs need good food, adequate areas in which to eat, sleep, cool off and poop, and barriers to protect them and the rest of your property, look at what you have before you decide to get a pig. Remember, you are going to either eat the pig, let it raise healthy babies, or just have a pet. Give it what it needs to live a good life and it will happily, and easily, return the favor!
Recently, I discussed our concerns about inbreeding with agricultural experts at the USDA. They studied the genetics as listed on our registration papers gathered at the time and determined our inbred coefficient was around 20%. A 20% relation is nearly equal to half siblings. Since this was based on only a few herds, that number may change as we obtain more pedigree information from new farms, but even if it doesn’t, he did not feel this was detrimental at this point, as long as we manage it so it does not increase. That is where the LBHA can help.
Our herd book software can provide a valuable tool in determining the best match for any registered pig. The association can take any two pigs and prepare a proposed inbred coefficient for the cross from those two particular animals. If you like that number then you know you have made a good choice. If not, you can keep searching until you find a replacement boar that will give you the coefficient you desire.
We often get calls from people asking which breeder we would recommend or how they can find a pig close to home. The reality is this is a rare breed that has been pulled back from the brink of extinction so the first consideration should be the particular pig, not the breeder or what’s conveniently located. Some of the breeders you see on our list drove over a thousand miles to obtain their breeding stock. Many waited on breeding lists for years before they got the opportunity to drive long distances to buy those pigs. Although the pigs are much more plentiful now, the need for picking just the right pig has not changed, and that means you may have to drive.
If you are a potential breeder and looking for your foundation stock, then you will most likely have to travel to two different farms to buy your pair, and those two farms may not be anywhere near each other. I would advise you to first start with a female. You will know a good female by judging her dam and sire against the breed standard. Even at weaning, it’s very hard to know how a pig is going to turn out but usually they develop just like their parents. Once you have made your selection for one or more females, now it’s time to find a boar.
In deciding on a boar, again, you should compare his parents against the breed standard. Before you waste your time doing that though, make sure you should even breed that male to your females. Ask for the pedigree information for both the dam and sire and email that information along with your females’ information and the association can prepare a proposed mating for you to see how related, or inbred, the offspring will be. Once you find a match you are happy with, then judge the breeder and the pig and you should be very happy with your selection.
Each farm is unique and has a different protocol but many farms do not allow visitors close to their animals due to health concerns. Bio-security is important so don’t assume the farmer has something to hide just because he does not want you in his pig raising area. He should be able to email you pictures of the sire and dam (side, front and back) so you can judge their conformation before you make the trip. They should also be able to give you the registration numbers and pedigree information so you can have the association do the comparisons early in your consideration. The breeder should also be eager to answer any questions you may have related to how they raise them (pasture or confinement) what they feed them, and their health routines.
Once you think you have found a breeder you trust and a pig you want to buy, what do you do with the in-breeding information you have received? Well first, you need to have a good understanding of what inbreeding (or more often called line breeding) means. Every breed that was ever created whether it is pig, horse, or dog, was done so by breeding closely related animals with a particular set of traits to produce a unique breed. The inbreeding does not stop there. Every “blood-line” was created by further selection in a particular breed, usually by a specific farm, to “set” or establish a particular trait that breeder desired. In horses, some blood lines are considered “hot” or maybe another is believed to be more athletic. That’s why a certain sire of any breed can become very popular and father numerous offspring and the owners take pride in saying they have an animal from whatever the famed blood line of the day happens to be. Often, that famed sire will be bred back to his daughters and/or grand-daughters and the offspring become even more desirable.
The thing we must remember in animal breeding is animals pass on undesirable traits just as easily as they do desirable traits. When you begin to line breed and inbreed you run the risk of compounding problems. The best way to fight that is to cull and cull hard. By that I mean kill any animal you find undesirable and cull consistently in order to stop those bad genes in their tracks. Although it is very hard to cull something so rare and valuable, it should be done and we’ve done it.
One year we had several sows that had small litters, aborted their litters or did not conceive at all so of course we were concerned. After ruling out any medical or weather conditions that could have affected their productivity, we slaughtered several healthy young sows in the prime of their life. Unfortunately, we later learned it was not bad genetics at all but moldy corn in our mixed feed from a mill that was trying to save money during the summer of constantly rising commodity prices. We discovered that when our most productive sows also began to decline and we knew what they were capable of. I lucked upon an article on mold toxins that described exactly what our sows where experiencing. One walk through the bowels of the mill turned up our culprit, moldy corn. We switched feed suppliers and the girls went right back to producing as expected. Thank God it was before they also ended up in the freezer.
It is easy to blame a problem on a pig but first we must look to our skills in animal husbandry before we decide they are at fault. If your sow is unproductive, is she over-fed and too fat? Does she have a diet with the minerals she needs? Have you witnessed the boar successfully and completely breeding here, not just attempting? Is he too fat or has he injured his hind legs? First, rule out other causes but if you are sure your animal has a bad trait, put him/her in the freezer. It is the only way we will preserve and improve this wonderful breed of ours.
Now that you have the information you need to make a wise selection, buy your animals with confidence and continue to learn all you can about raising them. Help us preserve this breed and pass it on to our children and grandchildren in a better state than we found them. This is an exciting time for the association and if you are contemplating buying your first pig, it’s an exciting time for you too. Join the association today so we can help you make an educated decision on breeders that will further benefit the overall health of this breed. Large Black Hogs will change the way we feed America, I have no doubt about it, but let that change first start with feeding our families and communities the best pork on earth.
